Advice – Driving.co.uk from The Sunday Times

Ulez checker: Is your car exempt from the Ultra Low Emission Zone?

Gracekindred — Tue, 29 Aug 2023 12:06:00 +0000

In 2019, London became the first city in the world to establish a dedicated Ultra Low Emission Zone (Ulez) for vehicles. It was a scheme announced in 2015 by then-London Mayor Boris Johnson.

In October 2021, significant changes to the system were introduced including a large expansion of the zone and an end to residents’ exemptions.

On August 29, 2023, the Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan, expanded the Ulez to cover the whole of Greater London.

What is a Ulez?

A Ulez is an “ultra-low emission zone”. Drivers entering the area are charged for doing so if their vehicle does not meet certain emissions standards.

How much is the London Ulez charge?

Drivers pay a £12.50 charge (or £100 for lorries, buses and coaches) per day for entering the London Ulez if their vehicle doesn’t meet the emissions standards. That’s on top of the £15 Congestion Charge for the very centre of London, which currently applies to most cars, so many motorists could have to pay £27.50 per day passing through that zone.

Why was the Ulez introduced?

The Ulez is designed to encourage people to drive less-polluting cars or use other methods of transport, such as walking, cycling or taking public transport. This was expected to substantially improve the air quality in the area.

A report four months after its introduction found that around 13,500 fewer polluting cars were being driven into central London every day, compared with six months earlier. This equated to a decrease of around 36% in levels of roadside nitrogen oxides, which are harmful to health.

Air pollution causes seven million deaths a year worldwide, according to the World Health Organisation (WHO), and the Royal College of Physicians concluded that traffic fumes are contributing to the early deaths of an estimated 40,000 people in the UK.

In December 2020, a coroner ruled that air pollution made a “material contribution” to the death of nine-year old Ella Kissi-Debrah — it was a landmark ruling that for the first time listed air pollution as a cause of death.

A report by Imperial College London commissioned by the mayor’s office found that in 2019 the equivalent of between 3,600 and 4,100 deaths in Greater London were estimated as being attributable to air pollution, and that the adoption of more stringent measures such as an expanded Ulez would increase the life-expectancy of a child born in 2013 by around six months.

Expanding the Ulez London-wide will bring cleaner air to five million more Londoners, according to the mayor. It’s also estimated that the expansion will result in a reduction of NOx emissions from cars in outer London of nearly 10%, as well as a nearly 16% reduction in PM_2.5 particulate emissions, leading to a 1.5% overall reduction in PM_2.5 emissions London-wide.

However, statistics from the Mayor’s Office have been the subject of much scrutiny, partly due to what has been described as a close relationship between it and Imperial College’s environmental research group, which published the 3,600-4,100 deaths figures. A thorough investigation by The Times highlighted more concerns, though concluded people with lung conditions and poor health would ultimately benefit from the Ulez and its expansion regardless. Khan told the newspaper he would be on the right side of history.

How many cars are affected?

When the Ulez came into force on April 8, 2019, it was estimated by the London Assembly that up to 60,000 vehicles per day would face the charge. The expanded zone from August 2023 means that 160,000 cars will be affected initially, according to the Mayor’s Office, with Khan expecting that to drop to 46,000 as owners switch to less polluting cars.

However, the RAC obtained figures from the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA) suggesting that nearly 700,000 cars registered in Greater London are non-compliant, equating to 25 per cent. A further 160,000 vans and lorries do not meet the standard.

This caused many affected to worry that they could not afford to replace their non-compliant cars with new ones, however it’s worth noting that electric vehicles and brand new models are not necessary – there are affordable petrol and diesel models that comply (see below).

Is my car exempt from Ulez?

Drivers of older, more polluting petrol and diesel cars are affected but you don’t need a zero emission electric car or even a hybrid in order to escape the charge.

Petrol cars with engines that are compliant with Euro 4 emissions regulations, which were introduced in 2006, avoid the Ulez charge.

Diesel-powered cars will only be exempt if the engine complies with the Euro 6 vehicle emission rules, which came into force much more recently, in September 2015; if your diesel car is older than that, it’s possible it will be subject to the Ulez charge.

However, some cars complied with these emissions standards prior to the rules being enforced, which means some older cars may still escape the charge. To be sure, visit the online Ulez checker from Transport for London and enter your number plate.

Do any other types of vehicle escape the Ulez charge?

Though Transport for London “would prefer you use a vehicle that meets the new emissions standards” as outlined above, some older, more polluting cars are also exempt from the Ulez charges under very specific circumstances.

Drivers of cars more than 40 years old can apply for an exemption from the Ulez. It’s a rolling exemption, so in 2023 vehicles built before 1983 are eligible to apply for historic vehicle tax class.

This does not apply to commercial use vehicles such as food trucks. All vehicles built prior to January 1, 1973 (including food trucks and other commercials) can, however, receive an exemption.

Other exemptions are also made for types of vehicle used for specialist purposes such as agriculture or the military.

No taxis registered for use in London will be hit by the Ulez penalty. In order to be licensed as a London taxi, the vehicle can’t be more than 15 years old, and all new licensed cabs “must be capable of producing zero emissions”. A new plug-in black cab went on sale in 2017— read our LEVC TX review here.

Do residents have to pay the Ulez charge?

Prior to October 25, 2021, people who live inside the Ulez did not have to pay to drive non-Ulez-compliant vehicles within the zone, though they now must pay a full fee to do so. This does not apply if the vehicle remains parked for the day.

“Designated wheelchair-accessible private hire vehicles” will also be exempt from the Ulez penalties until October 26, 2025.

Is there an exemption for disabled drivers?

With the expansion of the zone, disabled Londoners and community transport providers whose vehicles are registered with the DVLA as having disabled or disabled passenger vehicle tax class have an extended grace period which exempts them from paying the Ulez charge until October 24, 2027. This is valid as long as their vehicle doesn’t change tax class.

Drivers over the state pension age can apply for the extended grace period even if their vehicle if not registered with the DVLA as being for disabled drivers, though they must be in receipt of Attendance Allowance AND hold a Blue Badge.

Can I make my car Ulez compliant?

It may be possible to retrofit your non-compliant car or van to meet the requirements, either by changing the engine or upgrading the exhaust, but the cost of doing so and then re-certifying your car so that it is recognised as compliant by the DVLA is unlikely to make it worthwhile.

The best options if you need to travel into the Ulez are to go by other means (cycling, public transport, taxi, etc.) or sell the car and buy one that is compliant (you don’t have to buy new, remember — you just need to buy a car that meets the emissions standards).

It may be possible to part exchange your old car or scrap it via a dealer, and with the expansion of the zone the London Mayor also announced a £110 million scrappage scheme, which he said will help Londoners “on lower incomes, disabled Londoners, micro businesses and charities to scrap or retrofit their non-compliant vehicles in exchange for a grant or free annual bus and tram passes.”

Is there a Ulez scrappage scheme?

With the Ulez expansion, Sadiq Khan announced an improved scrappage scheme to help residents switch to compliant cars.

Up to £2,000 for a car or £1,000 for a motorcycle is available.

In the case of wheelchair-accessible vehicles there is a £10,000 scrappage payment or £6,000 to retrofit the vehicle to bring it up to Ulez standards. There is also the option to accept a lower payment and receive one or two adult-rate annual bus and tram passes.

It’s not only cars that can avail of the scrappage scheme. Businesses and sole traders can claim £7,000 for each non-compliant van taken off the road, up to a total of three vehicles.

Charities can apply to receive £9,000 for minibuses, again, up to three vehicles.

The cost of the scrappage scheme is estimated at £160 million and will be paid from City Hall’s reserves.

You can find out more about the online scrappage application here on the Transport for London website.

Ulez checker

The best way to check whether or not your vehicle is exempt from the Ulez charge is to enter its registration number (number plate) into the Ulez vehicle checker at the Transport for London website.

How big is the London Ulez?

In October 2021, the Ulez expanded to cover all areas within the North and South Circular roads. Previously, the Ulez had covered the same area as the London Congestion Charge. However, the Ulez is to be expanded again from August 2023.

Ulez expansion in 2023

In November 2022, the Mayor of London Sadiq Khan confirmed that the Ulez would be expanded, saying that “around 4,000 Londoners die prematurely each year because of long-term exposure to air pollution, with the greatest number of deaths in outer London boroughs,” adding, “That’s why this expansion is so important — we need to clean the air for everyone.” The health benefits and related statistics have been subject to much scrutiny.

The new Ulez area matches the old Low Emission Zone, stretching as far as the M25 in places.

Residents just outside the zone may find that regular journeys involve travelling into the expanded zone. Areas such as Bromley, Croydon, Dagenham, Romford, Enfield, Twickenham and Kingston upon Thames all fall within the proposed expanded Ulez from 2023.

Popular attractions such as Hampton Court Palace and Chessington World of Adventures also sit inside the expanded zone, meaning that visitors arriving by car could be liable for the Ulez fee.

Travelling into the expanded Ulez with a vehicle that doesn’t meet the standards would mean incurring the £12.50 daily charge, including for residents.

Some residents and councils have reacted angrily to the news of the expansion, though there’s no sign at present that the plan will be dropped or delayed.

On what days and between what hours does Ulez operate?

Unlike the London Congestion Charge, which is in force between 7am and 10pm, seven days a week, the Ulez operates 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The only exception for both the CC and Ulez is Christmas Day.

This £12.50 fee daily rate resets at midnight, so if you enter at 11.59pm and exit two minutes later, you’ll be charged for two days (£25).

What’s the penalty for not paying the Ulez charge?

If your car isn’t exempt and you don’t pay your ultra-low emissions zone charge on time, you will be subject to a £160 penalty. This will be halved to £80 if you pay for the fine within 14 days.

Is the Congestion Charge zone also expanding?

There was speculation in October 2020 that the Congestion Charge zone, which currently covers an area in central London, would be hugely expanded in order to recover money that Transport for London lost during the coronavirus pandemic.

Government Ministers, including Transport Secretary Grant Shapps, had proposed expanding the £15 per day charge to the North and South Circular roads, which would have affected around four million Londoners.

However, the Mayor of London Sadiq Khan said that he had “succeeded in killing off” the proposal. As part of the agreement made with central government, though, London will need to raise extra money in future years, meaning that the temporary changes that were made to the congestion charge in June 2021 (raising the price to £15 per day and expanding hours to 10pm) are likely to be made permanent.

If you found our guide to the London ULEZ helpful, read about how sales of new petrol and diesel cars will be banned from 2030
Fortunately, classic and vintage cars won’t be affected by the ban — these are the top classic cars to invest in
Still not sure if your car is Ulez compliant? Use the official Ulez Checker to find out

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12 ways to save money on your car insurance

Tue, 25 Jul 2023 21:18:00 +0000

After fuel, insurance is usually one of the biggest annual costs for motorists and saving money on car insurance can be a frustrating aspect of car ownership.

Not only is car insurance a hefty expense but because insurance companies take into account a wide variety of factors when calculating premiums, the sum a driver pays for insurance every year can be unpredictable and influenced by factors beyond a motorist’s control.

Age plays a big part certainly, largely because the younger a driver is, the more statistically-likely they are to be involved in an accident, which is why car insurance is so expensive for teenagers and twenty-somethings.

On average, someone under 25 will have to fork out £2,145 to insure their car while a typical 25-49 year-old will pay in the region of £850. For the over-50s, that’ll be more along the lines of £568.

Few people will move house just for the sake of their car insurance, but where you live can also wreak havoc on your premium. Drivers who live in London pay more on average for car insurance than those in the south-west of England and the Scottish Borders, for example.

In the latter areas, cars are seen to be at a lesser risk of theft or vandalism, and if you live in a terraced house with no access to off-street parking, your premium will be higher still.

Thankfully, insurance premiums aren’t entirely in the lap of the gods and there’s still a lot motorists can do to bring down the. Here are our tips on how to reduce your car insurance premium.

1. Shop around

There are a lot of car insurance providers out there, all competing for your attention. The best way to save on your insurance – any insurance – is to shop around.

That doesn’t mean spending hours online or on the phone getting quotes from every insurance company in the land; a quick call to an insurance broker will usually net motorists a good deal on the policy that’s the best fit for them, while a number of price comparison websites such as USwitch, MoneySuperMarket.com, GoCompare or Comparethemarket allow drivers to input their details and find the best deal available from a selection of providers, potentially saving them hundreds of pounds every year.

Remember, the cheapest quote isn’t necessarily the best one. Do your research and see what the policy covers (breakdown assistance, windscreen cover etc.) as a slightly more expensive policy may offer better value in the long run. There’s no point either in opting for the bare minimum level of cover if it’s going to mean that you’re left severely out-of-pocket after a crash if you have to repair or replace your own car.

2. Pay your premium annually

As with many things, paying for your car insurance in a lump sum is cheaper than paying monthly, which is essentially a loan with added interest. The significant upfront cost means it’s not always attractive to do this but it’s worth considering paying with a credit card and then paying off the balance over a few months rather than a full year, potentially reducing the amount of interest paid.

If you can sign up for a credit card with 0% interest on purchases, even better, or you could find a card that rewards purchases with points or cashback.

3. Add an experienced driver to your policy

Adding an older, more experienced driver to your policy can sometimes help to bring your annual premium down. This doesn’t apply in all cases but if the other driver has a clean licence and claims history, it’s a decent bet that adding them as a named driver on your policy will decrease your premium.

Always be honest about who the main driver is or you risk invalidating your cover.

4. Increase your excess

The excess is the amount you pay in the event of a claim and is split into two parts — voluntary and compulsory — together known as total excess. If you choose to pay a higher voluntary excess, it will reduce the price of your insurance premium.

But you need to be aware of what that means in the event of an accident.

For one, you won’t be able to make a claim if the value of the damage is lower than your total excess. For example, if your voluntary excess is £250 and compulsory excess is £250, any claim would need to exceed £500. And if, say, the repairs cost £550, you’d be paying the first £500 while the insurer would only contribute £50, which isn’t a good deal, especially as you would lose any no-claims discount you’d accrued.

And while the temptation is always there to reduce your premium as much as possible by increasing your excess, make sure you don’t sign up to an excess you’ll struggle to pay in the event of an accident.

5. Think about how you describe your job

Bizarrely, the way you describe your job can also affect your premium – for example, a “chef” might pay a different premium to a “cook”, and a “hairdresser” might pay a different price to a “barber”. If you’re using a price comparison website, it’s worth fiddling about with different ways of describing your job to see what earns you the lowest premium. If you’re a solicitor, for instance, try inputting lawyer or barrister to see what happens.

Be as creative as you like but just make sure that the job description you use is accurate, as otherwise it’s fraud and it will, at best, invalidate your policy.

6. Improve security

Think about installing devices such as alarms, immobilisers and locking wheel nuts. If you’re unsure about installing these devices, you can get insurance quotes before fitting any security upgrades and then see if the extra cost of buying these is worth it for the insurance savings.

If you have a keyless car, that may flag up a warning on the insurer’s system as it could be a model targeted by sophisticated thieves with electronic devices that can unlock the doors, so make sure you’re not making it easy for the techno-thieves by following Driving.co.uk’s guide to preventing keyless car entry.

Keyless car theft prevention: 6 ways thieves can break into a car and how to prevent it

7. Avoid modifications

It can be tempting to modify your car, and doing so is not just the preserve of boy (and girl) racers. But bear in mind that any upgrades to the styling, audio or performance of your vehicle could mean an increase in the price of your insurance.

This is because additions such as alloy wheels, body kits and performance upgrades could make your car — or parts of your car — a lot more attractive to thieves.

Cars with modifications also tend to be more expensive to fix due to the higher-value custom parts, and may be less reliable than cars that are standard, as they have been tested rigorously by the manufacturer.

8. Build up a no-claims bonus discount

This one speaks for itself. Building up your no-claims discount will help you to get a cheaper policy because insurers reward motorists who are less likely to claim.

Be careful about the drivers you add to your insurance policy though — if they’re less experienced and drive the car reasonably often, they’re more likely to have a crash and destroy your no-claims bonus, resulting in a double-whammy premium increase next time around.

9. Limit the mileage

If you can limit the number of miles you drive each year, it means you’re a lower risk for insurers — less time on the road means less chance that you’ll end up having an accident. But again, always give an accurate estimate of your mileage when getting a quote or you’ll invalidate the contract.

10. Consider a telematics or black box policy

Black boxes, which record data about your driving in order to form the basis for premiums, are sometimes associated with young or beginner drivers. However, anyone can get them and they can make your car insurance cheaper — provided that you’re a careful driver.

Many will balk at being constantly monitored by their insurance company and, if you don’t plan on being relentlessly diligent about your driving — staying within the speed limit at all times, braking and steering smoothly, and driving as few miles as possible — then a black box policy may not be for you and may ultimately lead to a higher premium.

11. Choose the right car

Choosing a car with its insurance group in mind is one way for drivers to potentially save hundreds of pounds every year. Cars in the UK are placed into insurance groups from 1-50 and the lower the group, the cheaper the car will be to insure.

Generally, smaller and less expensive cars such as superminis and city cars are among the cheapest to ensure while fast and high-end cars are the most expensive. After all, there’s a reason you generally see younger motorists driving a Vauxhall Corsa or a Ford Fiesta rather than a BMW M3 or a Porsche.

Drivers can check which insurance group their car falls into on the Thatcham Research website.

The age of a car is another factor affecting insurance premiums. For a variety of reasons — fewer safety features, potentially more expensive parts — older cars can be more expensive to insure, but that increase isn’t linear because newer cars are generally more valuable, making them costlier to repair.

In 2022, a new car cost on average £1,212 to insure every year. For a five-year-old car, that average figure fell to £1,089 before starting to rise, with the average premium for a 10-year-old car being £1,144.

Ideally then, for the cheapest car insurance, a driver will be looking for a car that’s five-to-ten years old and has as small an engine as possible. Cars such as the Hyundai i10, Kia Picanto and Seat Ibiza all fit the bill, though of course these won’t suit all drivers, so it’s worth checking Thatcham’s website when you’re choosing your next car if you want to save on insurance.

12. Drive safely

At the risk of stating the abundantly obvious, the surest way to avoid a significant insurance premium hike is to avoid crashing. The vast majority of accidents are caused by human factors including driving at an inappropriate speed for the conditions, impairment due to drink, drugs or tiredness, or even just a momentary lapse in judgement.

No driver is perfect all of the time, but bearing in mind that even a relatively minor shunt has the potential to drive up the cost of your insurance premium by hundreds of pounds every year does certainly focus the mind.

If you found our top tips for reducing your insurance costs useful, you will want to read that the fuel duty cut makes road pricing ‘more urgent’
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How long does it take to charge an electric car?

Tue, 25 Apr 2023 09:37:54 +0000

One of the aspects of electric vehicle ownership that might be deterring potential buyers is the fact that it’s not as simple or quick to charge an EV as it is to fill a combustion-engined vehicle with fuel. However, breakthroughs in technology mean that charging speeds are improving all the time, and bigger, more efficient batteries are able to offer longer driving ranges in the latest EVs, so owners will be stopping less often and for shorter periods, to charge their electric cars.

It still takes longer to recharge an EV than it does to fill up petrol or diesel model, but if your EV can travel 200 miles between charges, then that’s going to be a longer distance than most people are likely to cover in one sitting at the wheel of a car anyway. And if you are travelling long distances such as that, then you’re most likely to be doing it on the motorway, where service stations now feature some of the fastest charging facilities available, so you can easily combine a recharge with a rest stop on your trip and add plenty of energy to your EV’s battery.

That’s enough with the hypotheticals for the moment; what exactly is on offer in terms of charging? We’ll start with the fastest charging options of all.

Rapid charging

High-power rapid charging does exactly what it says, offering fast charging that uses a powerful source to replenish an EV’s battery as quickly as possible. Power sources above 50kW are considered rapid, while the most powerful ultra-rapid chargers in the UK can charge at up to 350kW. Speeds are set to go faster still, and the 500kW benchmark will be broken in the next year or so.

Due to the chemical composition of EV batteries, it’s not possible to charge them to full at the fastest charging speeds, and all electric cars slow down their charging rates as a battery charges and approaches 80 per cent state of charge (SOC). As a result of this, and the fact that different cars have different battery sizes, charge point manufacturers like to state the speed at which range is replenished instead, though obviously that figure varies by car and how efficient it is. The fastest 350kW chargers in the UK are claimed to add 62 miles of range to a battery in three minutes, while the fastest rates anywhere in the world are in Norway, where Tesla has started to upgrade its Supercharger network with 615kW power.

There’s a limit to how much charging power that an EV can accept, and it’s only the most expensive, premium EVs that have the fastest on-board charging tech in the 200-300kW range that can accept these fast rates. More common is 50kW charging hardware under the bonnet, which can at least take advantage of rapid charging that can add around 100 miles of range in just over half an hour. Many newer cars are launching with the capability to accept over 100kW of charge.

A Nissan leaf’s maximum charging speed is 50kW, using a DC charger (with a ChaDeMo connector instead of the CCS connector that has been made the European standard), and can be topped up to around 80 per cent capacity in under an hour.

More expensive cars with bigger batteries tend to feature faster charging capability. One of the major selling points of Tesla cars, for example, is their access to the Tesla Supercharger network, which are capable of charging at up to 250kW, and cars can be preconditioned to charge at the maximum rate sooner as you approach a Supercharger using built-in navigation. Tesla claims its V3 Superchargers can work at speeds of up to 1,000 miles per hour.

The Porsche Taycan and Audi e-tron can manage 270kW charging, while the upcoming Lucid Air can support charging of up to 300kW.

Without the capability of ultra-rapid charging, vehicles with substantially bigger battery packs would simply take too long to recharge. But with these ultra-rapid charging capabilities, it’s possible to recharge a long-range 100kWh battery from 10- to 80 per cent quicker than a 50kWh battery with a slower charging speed.

Public charging

The main difference between home charging and public charge points is that most of the public versions deliver DC – or direct current – electricity, so they can provide faster charge rates than a domestic supply, which is AC – alternating current. While some older public supplies – such as those at supermarkets – will provide an AC charging rate of 7.4kW, the latest standard is 22kW, which offers a useful amount of power for when an EV is parked up for a day out. Again, not all EVs can accept 22kW AC power. Almost all can take 7.4kW, and many can take 11kW of AC power, but 22kW is less common.

You can expect a 22kW charger to add about 90 miles of range in an hour, although again when the battery is reaching full, the charge rate will slow so as to not damage the battery.

Wallbox charger

If you buy an EV, there will usually be an incentive to get you to add a home wallbox charger, too. These are wired separately from the rest of the house on their own circuit, so as to not damage the rest of the house if something goes wrong, and this also means that charging rates can be boosted, too.

A home wallbox is an AC output, and on a single-phase supply there’s a maximum possible 7.4kW on offer. As you might expect, this charging rate is slower still, with around 30 miles of range added per hour depending on the car. That means a 50kWh battery will take roughly seven hours to go from flat to full. That might seem like a long time, but if you’re one of the 55 per cent of households that has off-street parking – and an accessible power supply – then it will be simple enough to keep the battery recharged overnight while parked.

If you’re located near an electricity substation, or can afford to have a new feed added to your house, another option is to get a 11kW three-phase wallbox fitted to your home, giving you the luxury of faster home charging. Up to 22kW is also possible, but it can be hugely expensive.

Domestic plug socket

At the extreme end of the spectrum, it’s still possible to charge an EV from a domestic three-pin plug socket, but it’s not recommended. It’s very slow by comparison to other methods, and only really suitable for trickle charging. You’ll only be charging at a rate of around 3kW, so even a modest 50kWh battery will take over 12 hours to charge, while the largest 100kW packs will take more than a day to go from flat to full.

The only time you should consider this type of charger is if you’re in desperate need – there won’t be any damage to the battery, but unless you’re using an approved mains adapter, there is a risk of fire and overloading your home electricity supply.

It’s important to say here that most experts don’t recommend using domestic three-pin sockets not only because they’re slow, but also because they may not be designed to handle a sustained charge at the full 13 amps. Inadequate wiring could lead to overheating, melting wires and, in a worst case scenario, fire. If you must use a three-pin socket, be sure to have it checked out by a qualified electrician.

Does battery size matter?

Of course, at a constant flow rate, the bigger the battery the longer it’ll take to refill. At 7.4kW charging it’ll take nearly twice as long to recharge a 100kWh battery as it will a 50kWh item.

Long range EVs need bigger batteries to avoid the driver having to stop to recharge too frequently. But cars designed for use in city and suburban environments don’t need or have the room for big batteries, and so car makers will fit smaller battery packs. This has the advantage of keeping costs and weight down to a minimum.

It also means that a 50kW maximum charging speed is deemed sufficient for a smaller EV, such as a Honda e, which comes with a 35.5kWh battery, or Mini Electric, which has a 32.6kWh pack and can be charged fully in around an hour, or taken to 80 per cent in about 30 minutes. Click here to see how we got on with a Mini Electric over an extended six month test, charging only using the public network.

At the other end of the scale, the expensive and advanced Mercedes EQS uses a 107.8kWh battery pack. Its owners will expect it to be capable of long-distance cruising and so it requires ultra-rapid charging capability.

The average battery size for an electric car on the UK market is around 55-60kWh.

How much range will I get from a charge?

That depends on the battery size, the efficiency of the car’s powertrain and a number of other factors including how fast you’ll be driving, the ambient temperature and more.

If you fully charge the Mini Electric’s 32.6kWh battery you will get an official 141 miles of driving out of it, though if you’re using the car on motorways and A-roads, you may find you need to plug in again after less than 100 miles. Drive only in the city, at lower speeds and you’ll be able to get close to the official range, and maybe even beat it.

A Lucid Air (above) is rated in the USA as having a range of up to 520 miles per charge, which makes it the longest-range EV to date. It also has high-voltage charging capability and can potentially add 300 miles in just 20 minutes.

If you found our guide on how long it takes to charge an electric car useful, you might also be interested to hear how much does it cost to charge an electric car?
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Car makers’ electric vehicle plans – a brand-by-brand guide

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The post How long does it take to charge an electric car? appeared first on Driving.co.uk from The Sunday Times.

Best executive cars to buy in 2023

Kieran.ahuja@sunday-times.co.uk — Tue, 18 Apr 2023 12:32:47 +0000

If you’re looking to buy an executive car, then the chances are that you’re after one that will deliver a good impression in the company car park.

The best executive models turn heads but also deliver decent running costs and cheap tax rates to help you balance your books. These are our top choices for sale in 2023.

Audi A6

From £39,605

Constant evolution means that the Audi A6 is as luxurious as the previous-generation A8 limousine in the class above, and almost as high tech as the new A8, too. Plug-in hybrid drive helps to keep the tax costs low.

2018 Audi A6 review (video)

BMW 5 Series

From £42,580

Much like the A6, the BMW 5 Series delivers tech and luxury with low running costs, but it also adds performance and handling prowess to the mix. There are few better executive cars for drivers interested in rewarding handling and performance. There’s plug-in hybrid option here, too, with the top-spec 545e delivering impressive pace and low tax.

The Clarkson Review: 2017 BMW 5‑series (530d xDrive) Touring

BMW i4

From £49,995

We’ve tried to include just one model from each manufacturer here, but the i4 is too good to overlook. It manages to deliver the kind of handling we’ve come to expect from BMW in a 3 Series-sized package with an electric range of up to 365 miles, which means smooth, powerful (and tax-busting) zero-emissions performance.

BMW i4 eDrive40 review 2023: Mid-range premium electric car beats Tesla at its own game

Genesis G80

From £42,650

Something of a left-field choice, the relatively new Genesis brand offers excellent quality and high technology, with Hyundai Motor Corp’s engineering expertise underneath the svelte skin. The G80 is an excellent thing to sit in and drive, with petrol and diesel options, and even a pure-electric model with a 323-mile range.

Genesis’ concierge service means you have a personal assistant on hand to help with the buying and servicing; they’ll even arrange for the car to be picked up and dropped back on your driveway when it needs an oil change. And the best bit? Genesis is a bold alternative to the obvious German fare.

Genesis Motor confirms first cars set for UK in European launch

Lexus ES

From £39,980

Not everyone is able to connect a plug-in hybrid for a recharge at home, to make the most of its electric range. The ES is a full hybrid and while it’s not the most exciting to drive, it’s hugely comfortable and is likely to be massively reliable. Jeremy Clarkson isn’t a fan, but if you want to waft from A to B in comfort — and value reliability — this is an excellent choice.

Mercedes-Benz E-Class

From £48,190

This list wouldn’t be complete without the E-Class. Updated in 2020, its interior is a high-tech haven, and the comfort and refinement offered is second to none in this class. It comes in two plug-in hybrid guises, one petrol and one diesel, with the latter offering a great mix of zero-emissions city driving and long-distance economy.

Polestar 2

From £44,950

Polestar is the electric sister brand to Volvo, and the 2 is a rival to the Tesla Model 3. It can’t go as far as the 3 on a charge but its design-focused cabin, quality of materials, sporty handling and strong safety kit help to make up for that.

2020 Polestar 2 review

Polestar 2 updated with more range, performance and quicker charging

Tesla Model 3

From £42,990

With a range of up to 374 miles between charges and access to Tesla’s excellent Supercharger network, the Model 3 is one of the most convenient electric company car for sale right now. If you spend a lot of time cruising up and down motorways, this works very well (usually … reliability isn’t Tesla’s forte). The tech-packed cabin will keep gadget fans amused, too.

2019 Tesla Model 3 review

Tesla Model 3 was second in list of UK’s best-selling cars 2021

Volkswagen Arteon

From £38,820

VW’s sporty take on the repmobile uses Passat engineering within a swoopy four-door coupé body. Plug-in hybrid tech is available to keep down running costs, and there’s also a practical (and gorgeous) Shooting Brake estate available.

VW reveals updated Arteon and new Arteon Shooting Brake

The Clarkson Review: 2018 Volkswagen Arteon

If you found our article on the best executive cars to buy in 2023, you might also be interested to read the best compact cars to buy in 2023
You might also like to see our guide to the car makers’ electric vehicle plans
Nine of the most exciting new cars arriving in 2023

Latest articles

The post Best executive cars to buy in 2023 appeared first on Driving.co.uk from The Sunday Times.

How to drive on snow and ice

Nicholas.kollgaard — Wed, 08 Mar 2023 13:47:00 +0000

Whenever Britain receives a significant amount of snowfall, as is forecast this week, many drivers are caught out and accidents become much more likely as driving on snow and ice means significantly reduced grip from the tyres.

Most UK drivers lack the winter driving experience of our neighbours in Scandinavia and mountainous areas of Europe, for whom heavy snowfalls are a regular occurrence, and specialist winter tyres aren’t required during winter months, as they are in some European countries, due to our relatively warm climate. All of which means drivers can panic when we do wake up to a covering of snow.

Sometimes conditions can be so bad that the authorities inform drivers not take to take to the roads at all, and of course drivers must heed that advice. But if you’re caught out but sudden snowfall and the gritting lorries are failing to keep up, then knowing how to drive in snowy and icy conditions can be the difference between a crash and making it home unscathed.

That’s why it does no harm to be reminded of the dos and don’ts of driving in the snow. Follow these steps on how to drive on snow and ice and you’re more likely to escape a scrape.

1. Remove all snow and ice

If your view of the road is obscured by snow, frost or fog, you’re breaking the law.

Clear the windscreen, side windows and door mirrors before setting off. Brush snow off the roof, too, as that could slide down onto the windscreen once you’re moving.

A word of warning: do not leave your car’s engine running to defrost the windscreen as it’s illegal to do so and drivers can be fined. Electric cars have an advantage here, as they can be defrosted via a mobile app before you need to hit the road.

Check out the best ice scrapers to buy

Lights must be cleared, too, and driving school Bill Plant recommends making your headlights are as clean as possible, so that they’re working to their full capability during the darker months.

2. Should you let air out of your tyres in snow?

It’s an oft-repeated myth, but reducing your tyre pressures will not help your grip on snow, say experts.

“Your tyres are designed to function at a certain pressure and changing that could be dangerous,” said Adrian Tink of the RAC. “The most important thing is to make sure you have sufficient tread depth.”

In Britain that means at least 1.6mm of tread, across the width of the tyre. In snow, 3mm will help massively.

Winter tyres will also help massively, though many Brits may find that switching from summer tyres to all-season tyres for use all year round could prove to be a brilliant decision when the snow does fall. On a recent test we found all-season tyres aren’t the compromise that they used to be.

All-season tyre test: a better option than summer and winter tyres for year-round safety?

And, of course, modern four-wheel drive is a big advantage for both traction and stability, helping to keep the car pointing in the right direction.

3. Do your checks

It’s important to make sure that your car is in working order before you try to drive in snow, when visibility is poor.

As well as making sure your tyre tread depth is sufficient, Bill Plant points out that you should make sure not only that your headlights and indicators are free of snow but also that they are working.

Don’t forget your fog lights — you never know when you’ll come across a patch of fog in winter, and a snowstorm can reduce seriously reduce visibility, at which point front and rear fog lights will help other drivers see you. Just remember that the law says you MUST switch them off when visibility improves.

4. How do you set off, or drive uphill or downhill in snow?

If you have a manual car, try setting off in a higher gear (second or third) when driving on snow and ice. This reduces wheel rotations, lessening your chance of skidding. Engage the clutch slowly and gently.

This is especially helpful when going uphill, though modern traction control systems may be able to do the job for you, to prevent the wheels spinning and thereby provide more grip.

When slowing down or heading downhill in a manual car, go down through the gears and allow the engine to slow the car as much as possible. Don’t keep your foot on the clutch as that removes the advantage of engine braking.

If you have an automatic or electric car, look for a winter or Snow & Ice mode button, which will reduce power from the motor to the wheels, as well as managing the transmission and how much wheelspin is allowed.

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5. Reduce your speed

This is an obvious one but too much speed when you drive on snow and ice will increase the risk of losing control. Sometimes skids are unavoidable but losing control may suggest you were driving too fast for the conditions.

6. Steer into the skid

If you do find yourself sliding, it’s important not to lose your head. The experts at Bill Plant said: “You should steer into a skid; this will help get the car straight and back on track.”

If you’ve no idea what this means, in layman’s terms: if it feels like the back of the car is sliding left, turn the steering wheel to the left, too, to point the front wheels in the direction of travel.

7. Keep a larger gap to the car in front

Stopping distances increase massively on snow and ice — the Highway Code says they can be 10 times longer.

Leave a 10-second gap between you and the car in front. This applies to 4×4 drivers as well, who may find it easier to gain traction as they head out of a snowdrift but will have the same grip issues when stopping.

8. No sudden movements

Any harsh braking or steering is bad in these conditions. Look well ahead and when cornering, reduce speed early by lifting off the accelerator gently, before using the brakes to reduce speed. Then take your foot off the brakes before turning, and feather the steering and accelerator through the turn.

Accelerating hard out of the corner could spin the wheels and cause a skid.

9. Don’t be afraid to use the brakes

If everything suddenly goes eerily quiet, the chances are you’re driving on ice. Black ice most often builds up on bridges and underpasses, where there is cold, wet air passing above and below the surface.

Whereas the advice used to be not to stand on the brakes when you hit ice, as older cars will lock the wheels, most modern cars have sophisticated computer-controlled anti-lock brakes and stability systems. So if you lose traction in a new-ish car, brake with full force and the electronics should do the rest.

If you don’t have ABS, you may still use the brakes but very lightly (called “threshold braking”); you want to avoid locking the wheels, as that provides zero control.

Another technique known as cadence braking involves pumping the brake pedal, which is basically how ABS works (though the car will be able to do it much faster than a human). Or you could use a combination of these techniques. The important thing is to allow the braked wheels to rotate.

Whatever, be sure to do your braking in a straight line, rather than while turning, as that could induce a spin or understeer (where the car travel straight instead of turning).

10. Electric car owners — keep an eye on range

Due to their chemistry, the batteries in electric cars work best at a certain temperature — somewhere between 15°C and 25°C. That means that the single-figure temperatures of a British winter are not their forte, and it’s estimated that nippy weather can reduce an EV’s range to the tune of about 20%.

You should keep an eye on your car’s remaining range, as well as on your nearest charging points. If you suffer from range anxiety, there are an increasing number of electric cars available with more than 300 miles of range, as well as ones with ultra-rapid charging capability, and new charging points are installed every day.

Do you need snow tyres to drive in snow?

There are several options for your wheels when driving in snow: winter (or snow) tyres, snow chains or snow socks.

Winter tyres: made from a different rubber compound from conventional tyres, that does not harden so much in colder temperatures and so improves traction below 7C.

Different tread patterns help improve grip and reduce stopping distances.

They cost 10%-15% more than conventional tyres and about £50 to fit, but you might find they’re worth every penny.

Here are some of the best winter tyres you can buy

All-season tyres: Not as effective on snow and ice as winter tyres but they are offer significantly more grip than summer tyres and perform much better than winter tyres on dry roads, making them a sensible choice for use all year round. We tested a set and found grip in corners on snowy surfaces improved 24% compared with summer tyres.

All-season tyre test: a better option than summer and winter tyres for year-round safety?

Snow chains: fitted to the driven wheels of the car, chains increase grip by biting through the snow and ice. They are usually sold in pairs and must match a particular tyre size.

Driving with chains will reduce fuel efficiency and limit the speed to 20-30mph. They must be removed before driving on clear roads, and fitting can be fiddly. They cost £50-£150 a set: buy at Halfords.com

Snow socks: a cheaper alternative that you pull over the tyres of the driven wheels. They are made of a textile that optimises grip on the road.

Simpler to fit than snow chains, they cost about £50 a pair. Drivers must keep below 50mph. Buy at Halfords.com

Is my car insured to drive in snow?

Your car insurance will still be valid if you take it out in the snow — it’s very unlikely there will be a clause specifically prohibiting it. But you need to be careful, as certain things could invalidate the policy.

For example, if your insurer believes you were negligent in heading out onto the road, say by driving dangerously or ignoring road closures, then a claim could be in jeopardy.

A spokesperson for the Association of British Insurers told The Scottish Sun: “We would urge all drivers to pay close attention to advice from local authorities and the emergency services in areas affected by snow – particularly where there is a red warning.

“People’s safety is paramount. However social media rumours that motor insurance will be invalid if people drive during a red warning are not true. Motor insurance will cover you in the usual way, providing you are driving within the law.”

What is illegal when driving in snow?

Be sure to avoid these key things if you don’t want the police to stop you and issue a fine or break the terms of your insurance.

1. Not defrosting the car

Rule 229 of the Highway Code says that before you set off you must be able to see, so clear all snow and ice from all your windows — peering through a hole in the windscreen is not good enough — get all the snow and ice off, and demist thoroughly. You should do the same with the mirrors.

You must also ensure that lights are clean and number plates are clearly visible and legible.

If you struggle to find time to remove the snow, ice and frost from your car windows in the mornings, you might consider investing in a car windscreen cover to keep your glass clear.

2. Not removing snow from the roof or bonnet

The Highway Code says to remove all snow that might fall off into the path of other road users. That means from the roof, bonnet and boot.

It’s not illegal to drive with snow on the roof but driving “without due consideration” is going to get you collared by the law, because clumps could slide on to the windscreen or onto another car, cyclist or pedestrian. In extreme cases you may be judge to be using a motor vehicle “in a dangerous condition”.

3. Idling your engine

One thing drivers mustn’t do is let the car’s engine idle to defrost the windscreen. Rule 123 of the Highway Code says that “you must not leave a vehicle’s engine running unnecessarily while that vehicle is stationary on a public road.” Drivers caught doing so could face a fine of £20 or double that if not paid within 28 days.

In the absence of a car windscreen cover and rather than idling their engines, drivers should invest in a window scraper or a can of de-icing spray to clear their frozen windscreens.

Alternatively, a jug or kettle filled with barely lukewarm water will suffice, though be warned: if the water is too hot the thermal shock may crack the windscreen.

4. Not using headlights

Snow means clouds, which generally means dim conditions, and when it’s snowing visibility is decreased further. The Highway Code says you must use headlights when visibility is “seriously reduced, generally when you cannot see for more than 100 metres (328 feet)”.

Using fog lights can be sensible but the important thing is to switch them off when visibility improves, as driving with them on when they’re not needed is illegal.

5. Not checking the route

The Highway Code says you should check your planned route is clear of delays and that no further snowfalls or severe weather are predicted. It is illegal to drive when local weather warnings have been issued, unless it’s an essential journey.

Essential safety kit for driving in snow

The Highway Code says to take an emergency kit in case you get stuck or your vehicle breaks down. Here’s a list of items to keep in the car:

Blanket/sleeping bag
First aid kit
Torch (with batteries)
Rope
De-icer and scraper
Mobile phone charger
Spare headlamp bulbs
Jump leads
High-visibility vest
Shovel
Tyre pump
Water
Warm drink
High-energy snacks and emergency food
Wellington / snow boots
Hat and gloves

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If you found our tips for driving in the snow helpful, you might also enjoy our guide to what to do if your car gets stuck in snow.
If you’re planning a trip to the Alps in your car, here’s what you need to know about driving in Europe after Brexit.
Also, check out this near-miss of a bus that lost grip on ice.

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The post How to drive on snow and ice appeared first on Driving.co.uk from The Sunday Times.

Is now the time to buy an electric car?

Jinnathasan — Tue, 28 Feb 2023 10:11:54 +0000

There’s still a lot of suspicion around pure-electric vehicles (EVs), and for some car buyers they’re not the answer. But the number of electric cars on sale is increasing rapidly, and so is their appeal, meaning many drivers are taking the plunge.

In 2022, electric cars made up 16.6 per cent of all new cars sold, up from 6.6 per cent in 2020 — a massive 147 per cent increase in total sales in two years. Improvements in battery technology are reducing costs and charging times, as well as increasing energy density (and therefore how far they can travel per charge).

Eyebrows were raised when it was revealed that the UK’s second-best-selling car in 2021 (of any kind) was the pure-electric Tesla Model 3, while the appearance of the firm’s Model Y crossover as the UK’s third biggest seller in 2022 proves that the desire for premium EVs is high, even if petrol models remain dominant in terms of total sales for the time being.

So, with EVs on the rise ahead of the ban on the sale of new petrol and diesel cars in 2030, we ask: is now the right time to buy an electric car?

How much does an electric car cost?

Electric vehicles are still more costly to buy new than internal-combustion alternatives. A Vauxhall Corsa e, for example, is around £5,000 dearer than an equivalent Corsa with a petrol engine. This is because battery packs are costly to manufacture at present.

However, car makers are offering great deals on new electric cars and eventually there will be cost parity: according to Bloomberg, a battery pack in 2021 was responsible for 30% of an electric car’s cost, down from an estimated 57 per cent in 2015. Some car makers — Nissan, for example — predict that that parity will finally be achieved by around 2028.

A few years ago, buyers were also put off by the potential rapid depreciation of electric cars. Some thought values would sink like a stone as soon as the car was driven away from a dealer, and drop further, faster than those of internal combustion engine (ICE) cars.

However, this has proved not to be the case because battery packs are not deteriorating as fast as expected, and because electric cars are still relatively scarce. By some estimates, electric cars now retain their value better than ICE cars, and premium models such as Teslas, which are some of the most popular electric cars, are holding their value extremely well.

Are there grants available to buy an electric vehicle?

Sadly not. The Plug-in Car Grant (PiCG) was axed in 2022, with the Department for Transport hailing “the success in the UK’s electric car revolution” as the reason for the move — essentially suggesting that the lower running costs of electric vehicles made them attractive enough to buyers on their own.

With the government continuously scaling back the scope of the PiCG, the final blow for the grant wasn’t unexpected, but it still drew the ire of motoring groups and industry figures who said that the inflated prices of EVs meant that buyers still needed government support in convincing them to make the switch.

When it was launched in 2011, a year after Nissan introduced the pioneering Leaf hatchback, the PiCG involved a government subsidy of 25 per cent of the price of a pure-electric, plug-in hybrid or hydrogen fuel cell car, up to a maximum of £5,000.

This was reduced to £4,500 in 2016, or just £2,500 for plug-in hybrids (PHEVs), and then again in 2018 to £3,500 for pure-electric models, with PHEVs receiving zero contribution.

It was cut again in the Spring 2020 Budget to £3,000, with a new caveat that pure-electric cars costing more than £50,000 were no longer eligible (ending what the government labelled the “Tesla subsidy” — cut-price cars for wealthy drivers).

On March 18 2021 it was cut even further to £2,500, with the upper threshold dropped to EVs worth less than £35,000, then in December it was slashed again, finally only offering prospective EV buyers just £1,500 and only being applicable to the small number of EVs costing less than £32,000.

What are the running costs of an electric car?

Electricity costs

Even with the Plug-in Car Grant gone, electric vehicles still offer plenty of other financial benefits. Electricity costs vary depending on supplier and tariff but, even with energy costs having soared in the past year due to a range of factors including the knock-on effects of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, in general if you charge your car at home, the cost per mile is still significantly less than that of a petrol or diesel vehicle.

London Congestion Charge

At present, electric cars don’t attract any Vehicle Excise Duty (VED, often referred to as “road tax”) for the first year of ownership, and if you live in London you’re exempt from fees in the Ultra Low Emissions Zone (ULEZ) and Congestion Charge zone, too; a saving of £27.50 per day.

In November 2022 the Chancellor announced that the VED exemption for electric vehicles would end in April 2025. It had previously been announced that the Congestion Charge exemption would apply until December 25 2025, when electric vehicles will also be required to pay to enter the zone.

Company car benefits

If you’re considering getting an electric model as your company vehicle, it’s also worth bearing in mind that Benefit-in-Kind tax is still just two per cent on electric vehicles — up from one per cent last year and zero per cent in 2020. That’s compared to at least 14 per cent on cars with more than 50g/km of carbon emissions.

Looking at what was once a perennial company car favourite, the 2-litre diesel Skoda Superb now attracts a 38 per cent BiK tax rate versus a mere 2 per cent for a pure-electric vehicle in the 2022-23 tax period — a rate due to remain in place until 2025.

Servicing and maintenance

Maintenance costs should be lower because an electric car is relatively simple. Aside from checking the brakes and tyres regularly, and filling up the screen wash, there’s relatively little to maintain: no oils or filters, no turbochargers or transmission to go wrong. So far, electric motors themselves seem to be very reliable — there’s effectively only one moving part.

That said, car makers will check a number of things relating to the high voltage system and electrical brain of the car. For a full list of checks, click here.

Battery replacement

It’s the cost of a replacement battery pack that puts off a lot of potential EV buyers, but there might be little to worry about on this front, too. Some EVs come with leased batteries, so they’ll just be replaced if necessary. When bought, most batteries have a warranty of around eight years or 100,000 miles (whichever comes first).

If you do need to fit a new battery pack you’ll potentially have to stump up some eye-watering amounts of cash. Manufacturing the 80.5kWh battery in a Tesla Model Y reportedly costs Tesla $9,250 (£6,670). Smaller batteries will obviously be cheaper to replace, but you’re still looking at £4,900 to replace the 40kWh battery in a Nissan Leaf hatchback.

Replacing the whole battery pack may not be necessary, though. Diagnostic software can trace problems to the failure of individual modules (groups of cells), which can be swapped out for new ones in the original pack. The cost of this will be much less than buying a new pack, though how much will vary, and you’ll need to pay for more than just the new modules: the process involves removing the pack from the car, opening up the case, replacing the faulty module(s) and then sealing the pack again to ensure no moisture can get in (there are strict safety rules on immersion in liquids).

The other option is simply to keep running the car with reduced range. Reliability after years of use seems to be pretty good and owners generally don’t complain of significant fade from older models, unless they’ve been poorly looked after.

Keeping the battery between 20% and 80% charged is generally considered the optimum window of operation, though carmakers build in extra capacity at the top and bottom end of the maximum available to drivers as a buffer, to ensure longevity of the battery.

How far can electric cars travel per charge?

There’s no escaping the fact that electric cars can be less convenient than internal combustion-engined alternatives. They often have a shorter range before they have to be refuelled (i.e. recharged), and that process takes significantly longer than putting liquid fuel in a tank.

However, range is also improving significantly; the Mercedes EQS can manage 479 miles on a single charge, while the Lucid Air (not yet on sale in the UK) can achieve a staggering 520 miles.

Those two are expensive electric cars, but even the MG4, which costs just under £26,000, can manage more than 250 miles between charges.

How quickly can electric cars recharge?

More important for many owners than how far their car can travel on a single charge is how fast it can recharge. There are an increasing number of ultra-rapid 350kW chargers that will top up compatible cars such as the Porsche Taycan and Hyundai Ioniq 5 from 10 per cent to 80 per cent in under 20 minutes.

But even a Peugeot e-208 will charge to 80 per cent in 30 minutes, and a Mini Electric, with a range of up to 145 miles (more like 120 in the real world) will rapid charge to 80 per cent in 36 minutes.

With more “destination chargers” popping up at pubs, supermarkets and cafes, it’s surprisingly convenient to top up while getting on with other activities — you don’t need to sit in the car twiddling your thumbs.

Charging point location service ZapMap says that at the time of writing (February 2023) there are more than 62,000 connectors in the UK at 22,355 locations. Not all are operational all the time, admittedly, and some networks are more reliable than others — electric car drivers become used to having back-up plans for recharging while away from home, in case a charger is out of service or being used.

If you can charge at home the power supply is slower, but cars spend hours sitting on driveways and in garages not moving anyway — they may as well be plugged in and charging up.

Car makers will often install a home charging wall box at your house for little extra cost, charging at 7kW or even 11kW in some cases, which allows a recharge from flat in around five to 12 hours depending on the size of the battery. Generally speaking, when most electric car drivers get to their car in the morning it has a fully-charged battery.

So should I buy an electric car?

An electric car can make sense for a lot of people, even today. We tested a Mini Electric for six months, relying entirely on public charging infrastructure (no home charging), and found that it is was possible and not that inconvenient (though can be a fair bit more expensive).

Buy new and the costs are still high, but they’re becoming more reasonable, and with low running costs you may find you actually save money over three years. It’s especially beneficial if you’re a company car driver, due to the excellent BiK rates. Private buyers may find leasing convenient.

With the surge in electric vehicle sales over the last few years, more are making their way to the second-hand market, meaning that used EVs are potentially a good option for those whose budget won’t extend to something brand new. A glut of EVs coming to the end of their leases has seen plummeting second-hand values for some EVs (the Tesla Model 3, for instance), and while that’s obviously bad news for sellers and those buying new, it’s potentially very good for those searching for a second-hand electric car.

But EVs aren’t necessarily right for everyone right now, due to up-front costs, types of car available and types of driving required — if you’re an executive who drives the length of Britain a couple of times a week, a diesel car may still be the best option.

We’d recommend an extended test drive of an EV that interests you, or even a short-term lease through a company such as OnTo, Elmo or Electric Zoo, so that you can see if the car fits into your lifestyle and get a feel for costs and convenience.

What electric cars are available to buy?

The years 2021 and 2022 saw the arrival of a number of accomplished and well-received new electric models. In fact, such is the proliferation now of fine electric cars that nearly every category now features at least one electric model (although electric sports cars and large SUVs are still few in number).

Buyers in search of a mid-sized family crossover are particularly well catered for, with some of the best electric cars out there including:

With prices for the Enyaq starting from almost £35,000, these models will still be too pricey for some wishing to make the EV switchover. The good news, however, is that there are still excellent cars on the market in a lower price bracket. Some of these models include:

Those shopping at the premium end of the market are spoiled for choice with desirable models such as:

What’s coming in 2023?

This year isn’t set to see quite so many buzzy new EV launches as previous years, but there are still a number of exciting (and not-so-exciting) models either set to be unveiled or due to come to market, including:

Hyundai Ioniq 6
Polestar 3
Rolls-Royce Spectre
Lotus Eletre
Vauxhall Astra Electric
Maserati GranTurismo Folgore

The EV market is expanding all the time and there are plenty of vehicles on sale other than the ones mentioned above.

Whereas in the early days electric cars tended towards the eminently sensible (the Nissan Leaf and Renault Zoe for example), these days there are cars available to suit not just a wide range of budgets and lifestyles, but tastes too.

Buying an electric car

Right now, EV buyers are facing the same problems as the rest of the car-buying public.

The ongoing hangover from a global chip shortage means that manufacturers still can’t get cars out the factory door and onto dealer forecourts as fast as they’d like, meaning that there’s a shortage of stock at the dealers’ end.

While many buyers will be content to choose from alternative models that the dealer has on the lot, for a variety of reasons that stock just doesn’t seem to be there for EVs.

Those looking to buy a new electric vehicle with a specific level of equipment may have to wait at least six months for their car to be delivered from the factory, though lead times of eight to twelve months are also possible.

What to look out for when buying a used EV

Most of the same caveats apply when buying a used EV as when buying any other car.

If you’re buying an EV, you need to be sure that it suits your lifestyle. Is the kind of mileage you regularly cover conducive to EV ownership, for example? Will you easily be able to charge the battery at home or work?

Assuming that an electric vehicle ticks all your lifestyle boxes, it’s important to check the overall condition of the vehicle, ensuring there’s no crash damage or excess wear-and-tear on the interior.

In cars of this age, a full service history isn’t a big ask, so always look for one as it will give you a good idea of how well the car has been maintained and if recall work and software updates have been completed.

Herein lies one of the biggest advantages of EV ownership — the cars themselves have very few moving parts and the ones they do have need little in the way of maintenance. That said, be sure that tyres, brakes and suspension components are in good condition as these can wear out the same way as any other car.

As for batteries, most should retain at least 80% of their original capacity for the first eight years of use and many are warrantied as such. Make sure this is the case as a battery that doesn’t have at least 80% of its capacity won’t achieve the kind of high-discharge, rapid-recharge needed for regular use.

Luckily, recent studies suggest that EV batteries only degrade by around 2.3% per year of use, so early horror stories of batteries becoming knackered after two or three years don’t reflect the normal case.

But battery condition will vary depend on how it’s been treated; previous owners who have left the car drained for extended periods of time may have negatively affected the battery life, and vehicles that have been kept in especially cold or hot climates may also have been affected. Check the estimated range of the car with a full battery versus the manufacturer claim when new.

If you want to find out what it’s like to live with an electric car, read our extended test of the 2020 Mini Electric
If you answered yes to the question “Should I buy an electric car?”, you might want to read about all the car makers’ electric car plans
Want to know which electric cars can travel the furthest between charges? Take a look at the top 10 electric cars for range

Latest articles

The post Is now the time to buy an electric car? appeared first on Driving.co.uk from The Sunday Times.

EV drivers could save £500 per year with these driving tips, says Kia

Shane.odonoghue@sunday-times.co.uk — Thu, 22 Dec 2022 09:42:37 +0000

A study commissioned by Kia has shown that electric vehicle drivers could potentially increase their range between charges by as much as 33% by taking on board a few simple tips aimed at maximising efficiency.

The study conducted in partnership with the automotive training firm Motiv8 revealed that, with the average driver covering around 311 miles during the Christmas period, by changing their driving habits EV drivers could save between £7 and £16 depending on where they charge their vehicles.

With the average electric car in the UK covering 9,435 miles every year, those savings could, over a 12-month period, add up to as much as £500.

The research, conducted among 1,200 electric vehicle drivers in the UK, showed that while 71% agree that owning an EV has helped reduce the impact of the cost-of-living crisis on their household, 52% said that they wished they were better-informed of ways in which they could adapt their driving styles with the aim of achieving greater efficiency and cost savings.

Interestingly, on the latter point, the proportion of EV drivers who said that they were interested in changing their driving styles to cut running costs decreased with age which, according to Kia, could indicate the more acute impact of the cost-of-living crisis on younger drivers.

As part of its research, Motiv8 twice took a group of motorists each driving a new Kia Niro EV over a route that included winding country roads, town driving and stretches of motorway.

During the first run, the test subjects were free to drive in their usual style under the instructor’s observation and, with those observations and the efficiency figure from the car’s dashboard read-out noted, the drivers were advised on how they could improve that figure.

With those tips in mind, over the second run each driver recorded, on average, a 33% improvement in their miles per kilowatt-hour figure.

How to improve EV efficiency

Most of Kia and Motiv8’s tips for improving efficiency are also applicable to drivers of combustion-powered cars and broadly tally with Driving.co.uk’s advice on how to save money on petrol and diesel cars.

“Go easy with the right foot”: Up to 50% of the energy powering a car goes into acceleration, so aggressive driving uses more energy.
“Lighten the load“: Take the roof box off if you’re not using it and unload any unnecessary clutter. Studies have shown that an empty roof rack can increase drag (and thus energy consumption) by around 16% at 75mph while a roof box adds about 39% more.
“Momentum“: Careful route planning to avoid jams will keep you moving. Sometimes the fastest route is not the most efficient one, and using a GPS app will often help drivers to avoid traffic black spots.
“Anticipate”: Reading the road ahead and coming off the accelerator in anticipation of roundabouts and red lights can help maintain momentum and reduce the need for braking and then acceleration, which eats into range. Even a small amount of forward momentum can make picking up speed again a lot easier for the car, so keeping the car rolling as you approach red lights can help greatly if they then turn to green before you reach the stop line.
“Go slow”: Cutting your speed from 60mph to 50mph can improve efficiency by up to 15%, and it’s all down to (relatively) simple physics. As a car drives along a road, power must be equal to or greater than resistive forces, namely aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance in the tyres. Because the power needed to overcome drag is proportional to the force of that drag multiplied by the velocity of the vehicle, the faster a vehicle goes, the more relative power is required and the less efficient it is.

What else can drivers do?

Keep tyres correctly inflated

To add a couple of extra points to Kia’s and Motiv8’s advice, for safety as much as efficiency, drivers need to make sure that their tyres are in good shape.

Underinflated tyres will increase rolling resistance meaning that the car’s powertrain will have to work harder than it should.

Don’t try pumping them up beyond what is recommended in the user manual, though, as that won’t improve efficiency and can be dangerous.

While you’re checking your tyre pressure make sure the tread depth is well above the minimum legal depth of 1.6mm.

Reduce energy consumption in the cabin

Although the efficiency of cabin accessories in electric vehicles such as heaters and window demisters is improving all the time, they can eat into battery range if used extravagantly.

If you charge at home, try pre-conditioning the car ahead of setting off and while it’s still connected to the charger so that you don’t unnecessarily cut down on battery range by getting the cabin to the desired temperature.

In an EV, using heated seats and steering wheels is actually more efficient than heating the entire cabin.

In hot weather, turning on the air conditioning while the car is still connected to its charger and before you set off is a good idea, though when that’s not possible, opening the windows for a couple of minutes is worth doing as it helps dissipate some of the heat and reduces the requirement for air conditioning.

After reading about the EV driving tips from Kia, you might be interested to read about the Volkswagen ID. Aero electric saloon
Keen to go electric? Here are the top 10 longest-range electric cars
Or read Will Dron’s review of the Hyundai Ioniq 5

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Are LED headlight bulbs for cars legal?

Shane.odonoghue@sunday-times.co.uk — Thu, 01 Dec 2022 12:31:14 +0000

One major complaint often heard from motorists is about LED headlights and the blinding glare they can cause to oncoming drivers.

Many new cars are now fitted with LED headlights as standard, and the headlights in those cars are specifically designed not to dazzle other road users; while they may look brighter to oncoming drivers, they’re designed within legal parameters and won’t cause any more glare than a well-fitted halogen headlight.

Also on the market, however, are aftermarket LED headlamp bulbs, and while fitting your car with some extra illumination sounds tempting (especially in the depths of the dark winter months), those may not be such a bright idea.

How do LED headlights work?

The majority of cars on our roads use halogen headlight bulbs. Halogen bulbs work by passing an electrical current through a filament of tungsten surrounded by halogen gas which then emits light and heat.

Another type is the xenon or High Intensity Discharge (HID) bulb that dispenses with the filament and uses the electrical current to heat xenon gas, which then produces light.

Light Emitting Diode (LED) headlights work in a totally different way by passing an electrical current through a semiconductor that then emits photons to produce a clear, bright light illuminating the road ahead. they use far less energy than halogen or HID bulbs making them a lot more efficient.

Generally LED headlights are sealed units, which means that motorists can’t replace burnt-out bulbs themselves, but they last much longer so if they’ve been manufactured well they should last for the life of the car, at least.

The technology in automotive applications is still relatively young so it remains to be seen how LED headlights will fare long-term, but one major downside is that if something does goes wrong with an LED headlight unit, it could prove eye-wateringly expensive to replace.

Aftermarket LED headlight bulbs, on the other hand, come in the same sizes as halogen bulbs and so can be used to replace traditional bulbs, potentially offering much better illumination. They’re unlikely to be as sophisticated as factory-fitted LED headlight units and may not be as effective, though.

And there’s a much bigger problem for drivers to consider before fitting them to their car.

What’s the problem with aftermarket LED headlight bulbs?

A headlight unit uses a reflector or a projector to focus the light that their bulbs or LEDs produce.

Halogen headlight bulbs are omnidirectional meaning that, without the correct reflector, their light is widely dispersed and they won’t effectively illuminate the road ahead.

LEDs are not omnidirectional, meaning that they require a lens to focus the light being produced.

What this means is that, if an aftermarket — or “retrofit” — LED bulb is used in a headlight unit that wasn’t designed for LED bulbs, the light will not only be much brighter than a standard halogen bulb, but will likely be glaring to other drivers and possibly won’t be very effective from an illumination point of view.

There’s also a chance (the same as with a halogen bulbs) that an aftermarket LED bulb may not be fitted correctly and that the level of the beam may not be set correctly, further exacerbating the problem of dazzling other drivers.

All of that said, none of these things are the biggest issue when it comes to aftermarket LED headlight bulbs…

Are aftermarket LED headlight bulbs legal?

No, they’re totally illegal in the UK and other markets for a wide variety of reasons, not least their aforementioned problems.

The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989 states that all headlight bulbs must carry either a European E mark or a British Standards mark to ensure their quality.

At present, no technical legislation exists surrounding the use of LED bulbs in headlamp units designed for halogen ones, which means that aftermarket LED bulbs cannot receive a European E mark, or a British Standards mark, and so cannot be certified for road use in the UK.

Will a car with aftermarket LED headlight bulbs fail an MOT?

Yes. In 2021, the MOT inspection manual was updated to include the wording:

“Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.”

This update only makes reference to headlights, so drivers who may have replaced other bulbs on their cars with LED equivalents are not affected by it.

For a while, this was a legal grey area. MOT testers were required to test LED and HID headlight units to ensure “mandatory levelling and cleaning devices” were working; cars with aftermarket LED headlight bulbs could be exempt from that requirement given that they may not have been originally fitted with those levelling devices.

While aftermarket LED headlight bulbs were still illegal, providing the beam pattern and colour of the light (white or white with a slight blue or yellow tint) were correct, there was no particular reason at the time that an aftermarket LED bulb would fail an MOT, something that has been changed.

So, to be clear, retrofitted LED bulbs will currently result in an MOT fail.

Why are aftermarket LED bulbs still on sale?

Because drivers are unclear on their legality and still willing to buy them, based on promises of superior illumination of the road.

One example that recently came to our attention concerned the new Philips Ultinon Pro9100 aftermarket LED bulb, which promises 350% greater illumination than the legal requirement for halogen bulbs.

The product packaging showing the bulb being used in a road car, and the bumf saying things like, “Their optimal light spectrum makes road signs more visible,” and “The perfect positioning of the LED chips in Philips Ultinon Pro9100 bulbs delivers light exactly where drivers need it, on the road without dazzling oncoming vehicles.”

However, buried down at the bottom of the press release from the bulb retailer it says:

“The Philips Ultinon Pro9100 LED retrofit bulbs are non-ECE homologated for public roads and should be used off-road only. Drivers must comply with applicable local legal requirements.”

Regardless of the fact that aftermarket LED headlight bulbs are not legal for use on the road in the UK, motorists are still using them, companies are still supplying them and drivers without them are still suffering as a result of the dangerous levels of glare they can often produce.

After reading about the legality of LED headlight bulbs, you might want to check out Ford’s lighting tech that “shows the car the way to go”
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All-season tyre test: a better option than summer and winter tyres for year-round safety?

Will.dron@sunday-times.co.uk — Fri, 04 Nov 2022 15:16:07 +0000

When the weather takes a turn in autumn and winter, the increased inclemency and potential for snowfall makes driving a lot more hazardous. That’s why more drivers turn to winter tyres to ensure the best grip for the conditions.

But there’s a third way: all-season tyres, which are designed to offer a balance of performance throughout the year, in all weather conditions. This potentially means no need to store a second set of tyres and no need to spend time switching them over twice a year.

But how good are all-season tyres, and are they in fact the worst of all worlds … bad in the summer and worse in the winter?

Not according to German manufacturer Continental, which claims its AllSeasonContact tyre offers “impressive grip on snowy and wet winter roads” as well as “good braking performance on dry and wet summer roads”. In other words, no compromises.

To find out whether these claims are true, Driving.co.uk headed to Mercedes-Benz World in Surrey to test the AllSeason against Continental’s EcoContact6 summer tyre. Read on for the results.

What is an all-season tyre, and how does it differ from winter and summer tyres?

Different types of tyres differ in two key areas: tread pattern and compound (chemical composition).

Tread pattern

A quick look at the different types side-by-side shows a clear difference in tread pattern, but understanding why they’re different is not so obvious.

Sport tyre

Summer tyre

Winter tyre

All-season tyre

The first thing you notice about winter and all-season tyres is that the tread pattern is directional; the grooves flow from the centre out to the shoulder of the tyre. This is for channelling water and slushy snow, which is pushed out of the sides of the tyres to allow purchase of the road.

Summer tyres don’t have this because they’re designed for higher speeds and in the wet, around 90% of the water displacement happens in front of the tyre, like a bow wave on a boat. At lower speeds this effect is reduced, so winter and all-season tyres use the tread channels to evacuate the fluid away from the centre of the tyre.

But if you look closely at the winter and all-season tyres, you can see more differences again. The winter tyres have many more tiny grooves, known as “sipes”, across the full width. Under pressure from the weight of the car, these open up and greatly improve traction on hard snow and ice.

The downside is that they generate noise, especially at higher speeds, and so you can see above that the all-season tyres use less siping than winter tyres.

Compound

Although most tyres look the same in terms of colour and feel, the chemical composition of different types of tyre is dramatically different. All-season and winter tyres are softer than summer and sport tyres, making them more flexible and able to grip slippery surfaces better.

The composition is also designed to cope much better with lower temperatures; whereas summer tyres get even harder when the mercury drops, winter tyres are designed to remain supple.

This negatively affects rolling resistance, though — the friction between the tyre and road surface — which means the engine has to work harder to keep the vehicle in motion, resulting in reduced fuel economy.

All-season tyres strike a balance between the two, and Continental claims its All-SeasonContact tyre, with its high silica composition, is particularly good for fuel economy versus the competition thanks to best-in-class rolling resistance.

Limitations of all-season tyres

There was a reason our tests were conducted in family hatchbacks and not the hot Mercedes-AMG models on offer at Mercedes Benz World: high performance cars require tyres capable of extremes of speed and cornering ability in the dry, and all-season tyres aren’t designed for that.

The ribs (lines of tread) of an all-season tyre are softer than those of a sports tyre, meaning they aren’t as good at coping with lateral (sideways) loads as well as a sports tyre, while the maximum recommended speed of the Continental All-Season tyre is 150mph – plan anything faster and you’ll need a different set of rubber.

Because of this you’ll also find that all-season tyres don’t often come in larger sizes, above around 18in, because generally high performance cars have larger wheels with lower-profile tyres.

This is changing, as many electric cars now have huge alloys thanks to the extra torque afforded by electric motors, so a larger number of family cars can now come with wheels of 19in or more, meaning tyre companies are being forced to develop new, more advanced types of all-season products to suit.

You will also find that the tread pattern of all-season tyres increases cabin noise compared with summer tread patterns, and the softer compound increases rolling resistance thereby reducing fuel economy.

How Continental all-season tyres fared in our tests

Mercedes-Benz World laid on two almost identical A-class superminis for the test, both A 200s with front-wheel drive and the same 161bhp 1.4-litre four-cylinder turbocharged petrol engine under the bonnet. Critically, the wheels on both cars were 18 inches in diameter, with the same tyre size (255/45 R18), and the tyres pumped to the same pressure.

The only difference between the two cars (other than the paint colour) was the tyre itself: one was fitted with Continental AllSeasonContact tyres and the other shod with summer-focused Continental EcoContact 6 tyres. The idea was to show the difference, if any, between the two in wet, dry and snowy conditions.

The latter test can be achieved at Mercedes-Benz World all year round thanks to the use of a special resin coating on a strip of road surface and a series of water jets along its edges. “It’s not as slippery as black ice,” my instructor Phil told me. “In terms of its grip level it’s extremely close to packed snow.”

Phil set the speed limiter to 40mph and told me to accelerate to the maximum speed then slam the brakes on at a set of cones, letting the car’s ABS and electronic stability control systems do their thing. “That will ensure maximum consistency across the tests,” he assured me.

Acceleration in the dry felt consistent in both cars, with each A-Class hitting 40mph well before the braking point. Then, at the cones, I stood on the brake pedal as instructed. Even with and all-season tyre, this is a disconcerting sensation, as the car slides on well beyond the point at which your eyes tell you that you should be coming to a halt. It looks simply like wet road rather than a snowy road.

But as alarming as the stopping distance with the AllSeasonContact tyre was (and we ran it three times, with almost identical results), the same test with the EcoContacts was shocking. No-one could argue that these are bad tyres – in fact they’re some of the most sophisticated available from one of the market-leading premium manufacturers. But they’re designed for summer conditions and ultra-low rolling resistance (i.e. the best fuel economy), and on snow the difference between these and tyres designed for more challenging weather conditions proved stark.

Not only did the car sail past the spot at which we’d come to rest with the AllSeasons, but continued right to the end of the resin strip. They bit hard into the regular asphalt at the far end, and the slide finished abruptly.

When I looked in the mirrors, then over my shoulder, to try to spot the tuft of grass I’d been using to mark my runs with the AllSeasons, I found it was so far behind me I could barely see it. If this had been real snow, the difference could mean a fairly uncomfortable prang at best. On a mountain road, I dread to think.

Accelerating on the wet resin proved interesting, too. While both cars managed to pull away thanks to liberal use of the traction control, the biting point between tyre and road necessitated far less pressure on the accelerator with the EcoContacts, which means slower acceleration. If you need to get out of the way in a hurry, an all-season tyre is without doubt a massive advantage.

But what about twists and turns? What sort of difference do all-season tyres make during cornering? To find out, Phil directed me to Mercedes-Benz World’s skid pan – a circle of asphalt with grippy inner and out rings and a central ring painted with more slippery resin paint.

Normally, guests use this to learn how to drift a powerful rear-wheel-drive Mercedes-AMG (as above), but today we were finding out how fast we could drive around before the front wheels of the A-Classes lost grip and began to slide towards the outer boundary.

The answer again was clear. With the EcoContacts, a constant 21mph was just about doable but just 1mph above that and the A 200’s front tyres could no longer cope, and steering inputs failed to register – the only way to regain control was to ease off the throttle, drop back below 22mph and straighten the wheel a little (adding more lock simply encouraged the slide).

The car with the Continental AllSeasonContacts felt dramatically different. You still lose grip and the nose of the car wanders in the same way, but it happened at 26mph. That doesn’t sound like much but it’s a 24% increase in speed and when tip-toeing around on snow, it would make a big difference.

The noise from the tyres was noticeable, too: almost silent with the EcoContacts but squealy with the AllSeasons, and with noticeable vibrations through the steering wheel as the more suitable tyres work harder for grip. It’s less pleasant in terms of feel and noise but if it’s keeping your car on the road in tricky conditions, you’re not going to complain.

Verdict: should you buy all-season tyres?

An all-season tyre is now an excellent option (surprise, surprise) for all-year round. This wasn’t always the case – like the Amphicar of the early 1960s, which was pitched as both a boat and a car but wasn’t very good at being either, all-season tyres tended not to be very good in the summer and not very good in the winter.

But our tests show that’s no longer the case — the tyre technology has got to a point where stopping and cornering in the dry and wet is almost identical, while on snow they offer a clear and reassuring improvement in grip over summer tyres. Well, that’s certainly true for the Continental AllSeasonContact.

Of course, a dedicated winter tyre would outperform the AllSeasons in both of these tests. But it wouldn’t perform anywhere near as well in dry conditions. What’s more, a winter tyre will wear quicker, generate more road noise and result in poorer fuel economy when used during the summer.

So if you live in a place where you get clear and prolonged extremes of weather – dry in the summer and guaranteed, sustained snow coverage in winter – having sets of dedicated summer and winter tyres make sense. But for most people in the UK, in locations where dry and wet conditions are common but snowfall is infrequent, an all-season tyre could be a sensible choice all year round.

Continental says its AllSeason is due to be replaced in 2023 by the more advanced AllSeason 2, so we can expect even greater things from all-season tyres in the future.

Three of the best all-season tyres to buy for your car

Continental AllSeasonContact

Highly rated by reviewers and has won Auto Express group tests multiple times. Its grip on snow was noted in particular, along with its excellent all-round abilities, though some others proved a touch better in deep water and dry conditions.

Where to buy it: Protyre; Halfords; KwikFit

Goodyear Vector 4Season Gen-3

Another award-winning all-season tyre that’s particularly good in the wet, though not the best in dry conditions and according to Auto Express can’t quite match the Continental on snow.

Where to buy it: Halfords; KwikFit; Tyre Shopper UK

Bridgestone Weather Control A005 EVO

Considered another excellent all-season tyre, this is good in the dry and a class-leader in the wet, though deep water removes the advantages and it’s not the top model on snow, according to Auto Express. The EVO is designed for reduced wear compared with the regular A005.

Where to buy it: Halfords; KwikFit

N.b. We may receive a small commission fee if you click on a link to an external website and purchase a product as a result, but these links are designed to make your life easier and it does not affect our editorial independence.

If you were interested in the best all-season tyres and their benefits, you might like to read tyre insurance and whether you need it
And here are seven of the best winter tyres and where to buy them
You might also like to read about how to claim for pothole damage to your car’s suspension, wheels and tyres

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The post All-season tyre test: a better option than summer and winter tyres for year-round safety? appeared first on Driving.co.uk from The Sunday Times.

How can people who live in flats install electric vehicle chargers?

Shane.odonoghue@sunday-times.co.uk — Fri, 28 Oct 2022 09:59:15 +0000

With some 85% of electric car owners charging their vehicles at home, but around 40% of UK households not having access to a garage or driveway, there are clearly a considerable number of potential EV drivers for whom it isn’t attractive at present to make the switch.

For a variety of reasons (most of which involve the impracticality or safety concerns of trailing an extension cable across a pavement or out of an upstairs window), those electric vehicle drivers who live in flats or houses without off-street parking have to rely on the public charging network in their area, which isn’t ideal.

For one, the public network — though improving all the time — is still patchy and has been described in some quarters as being a “postcode lottery”.

Secondly, public charging tends to be a lot more expensive than home charging and means that electric car owners don’t get the full benefit of lower running costs by using off-peak domestic tariffs.

Unless the UK’s public charging infrastructure continues to improve apace and the barriers to charging for those living in terraced houses or apartments are removed, it will be a lot more difficult for the UK to make the transition to battery-electric cars ahead of the government’s ban on the sale of new petrol and diesel cars in 2030.

Happily for current and potential EV owners who may live in flats, new legislation makes it mandatory for all new builds to include a sufficient number of EV chargers to meet residents’ requirements.

For those who live in older apartment complexes, there are also grants available for the installation of new chargers, which can take some of the sting out of the cost.

New build homes must have chargers built in

On June 15 2022, despite lobbying on the part of house-builders, new legislation known as Building Regulations Part S came into effect. This means that all new residential buildings, or those undergoing significant renovation, must have either one 7kW+ electric vehicle charging point per dwelling, or the infrastructure and cabling installed to enable a charger to be located there at a future date.

This applies to all buildings whether they be a one-off house or a large apartment complex.

Following the introduction of the new rules, a grace period was extended to building projects granted permission prior to June 15 running until June 15, 2023, meaning that any projects previously granted permission will not be compelled to install charging infrastructure if they break ground before the expiry of the grace period.

The new legislation is obviously very good news for flat-dwellers who may be planning to switch to an EV and will make it a lot easier to have a charger installed in future, but what about those in older buildings to which Building Regulations Part S doesn’t apply?

EV charger grants for older homes with parking

Electric vehicle drivers (or those who have ordered an EV) may be eligible for the Electric Vehicle Chargepoint Grant from the Office of Zero Emissions Vehicles (OZEV), which awards a 75% contribution up to a maximum of £350 provided the applicant meets the appropriate criteria.

Applicants must own and live in a flat or rent any residential property, with the dwelling having its own off-street private parking space.

Applications are administered by the company installing the charger with the firm discounting the awarded sum of the grant from its bill at the end of the installation process.

The grant is only for already-built properties; it cannot be used for new builds or unoccupied properties, and if you’re renting, you must seek the permission of the property owner before any installation commences.

If an installation requires cabling or other installation parts to be placed in or on another person’s property or public land, access rights and permissions must be agreed upon by all parties using legally binding arrangements before an installation can commence.

Any OZEV-approved charge point installation firm will be able to provide advice on just what kind of work needs to be undertaken to install a charger legally and safely in a flat complex, so it’s worth contacting one for an initial discussion and inspection of the property (which is often free). Recommended operators include Hypervolt, MyEnergi, Andersen, Pod Point, Ohme, EVBox and Wallbox, but there are many more.

However in some cases, especially if the building is older or the property manager isn’t co-operative, it may not be easy or feasible.

How difficult is it to install a charger in an older building?

An enormous number of factors — some technical, others interpersonal — can affect the feasibility of installing an electric car charger in an older building with a wiring system that wasn’t designed for EV charging.

Leases and property deeds may need to be altered to allocate all residents in the building a designated parking space, about which all residents may not be happy.

For complexes that don’t go down the communal charger route (which poses its own questions about just who pays the bill for installation), technical questions need to be asked about how an EV charger is specifically linked to the meter of the resident using it so that one resident isn’t paying for another’s use.

It may be a case that while the wiring infrastructure for the apartment complex is sufficient for ordinary residential use, it may not have the capacity to support EV charging without significant upgrades that the property manager and other residents may not be willing to undertake on the grounds of budget and disruption.

Incentives for property owners

For property owners and property management companies who are willing to install EV charging infrastructure, though, a grant of up to £30,000 per building is available for the installation of EV chargers and their required cabling, and it operates in much the same way as the Electric Vehicle Chargepoint Grant, with the installer making the application on behalf of their client and the size of the grant not exceeding 75% of the total bill.

Broken down, property owners can get up to £500 towards the cost of providing cabling infrastructure to a single parking space with a further £350 towards providing a charge point socket.

If you’re having difficulty persuading a property owner or residential property management company to install EV charging infrastructure in your flat complex, remember, there’s often strength in numbers. See how some of your neighbours feel about the prospect; after all, with more than a million electric vehicles now on UK roads, there’s a not-insubstantial chance that one or more of them may also be an EV driver, and a petition from many may be more effective than a lone voice.

And Pod Point has made things as easy as possible for residents, with this pre-written letter requesting charging infrastructure.

After reading how people who live in flats can get EV chargers, you might be interested to read about whether battery swapping is a good idea
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Advice – Driving.co.uk from The Sunday Times

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